“Jordan rarely features in rankings of the most popular expat destinations. But it’s culture, art and cuisine appeal to all the senses – and the strength of its women touches the heart.“ Annika Goodwin, Journalist
The countdown is running in front of our eyes in red numbers. Ten, nine, eight. I hear the Zumba instructor counting down in Arabic from the stage. Seven, six, five. A group of runners had formed around me: Most of them are wearing pink shirts, some a hijab, some not. Three, two, one. As if a pride of lionesses had been released into the wild, we set off, more than 300 other women and I.
We are all taking part in the Women’s Race in the Jordanian capital on this hot morning. The course takes us over the relentless hills of Amman, in temperatures of over 30 degrees in the shade. Some of the women set the pace from the start, eager to secure a place on the podium. Others take it easy. For them, it is all about fun and exercise. But there is one goal that unites us all: we want to celebrate women – for their strength, their spirit, their boundless energy. I can’t think of a better place to do that than Jordan.
It’s June 2024. The heat is already shimmering through the streets of Amman in the early morning. For the third time, I am living and working for a few weeks as a freelance writer in the Jordanian capital, a city of around four million people. When I arrived here, my batteries were drained. After months of travelling between Namibia, Saudi Arabia and Germany, I felt burnt out. It didn’t take long for me to feel alive again in Jordan. I soak up all the impressions like a long-awaited boost of oxygen: the food, Amman’s vibrant arts and culture scene, the fabulously beautiful nature outside and the architecture inside the city.
Wonder of the world and appetite again
The rhythm of the sun defines my daily life. At dawn, when the streets are still quiet, I go for a run. My routes take me up and down the hills of Amman. Past blooming bougainvilleas, stray cats and houses that resemble palaces with their marble columns and ornate decorations. My fiancé and I have rented a small flat in Abdoun, a district in the wealthy west of Amman. Nowhere else is the density of embassies as high as here. Perhaps this is why it is one of the most popular areas among expats: It’s easy to make friends in one of the many cafes or at the regular running clubs. It’s safe and, thanks to reliable Wi-Fi, there are plenty of places to get work done. Or for reading and people-watching.
However, Abdoun is also one of the most expensive parts of Amman: the equivalent of up to €5 for a cappuccino is not uncommon. It is true that you can live much cheaper in other parts of the city. Nevertheless, anyone planning a stay in Jordan should expect the cost of living to be relatively high. A recent survey by the market research company Ipsos shows that rising prices are a concern for more than half of the population.
Jordan faces wide-ranging structural problems. The country lacks natural resources, industry is sparsely developed, the economy has been faltering for years. In addition, there is a serious water crisis. Especially among the young population, unemployment is high.
Tourism is one of the country’s few mainstays. But while Jordan boasts attractions such as Petra, one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the sector has proved fragile in recent years. First there was the coronavirus pandemic. Now the war between Israel and Hamas is keeping tourists away from the Kingdom. I keep meeting Uber drivers who tell me they used to work as tour guides. Since October 2023, bookings have become rare. ‘We try to show people abroad that Jordan is peaceful,’ says one of them. ‘But they see the travel warnings and are afraid.’
The Kingdom in the Middle East hadn’t been on my radar for a long time either. I regarded it as dangerous and closed off. It was in Namibia that I first heard about the magic of Jordan. A British woman who had worked as an adviser to the Jordanian royal family told me about her time in the country. Her eyes lit up as she spoke of the warm-hearted people and breathtaking scenery. ‘I loved every second,’ she said. Her stories surprised me, and they made me curious. Little did I know that less than a year later I’d be exploring the country myself – and like the Briton, falling in love with Jordan, Amman in particular.
What the metropolis may lack in glamour (although you can find that too, in the Al Abdali district, for example), it makes up for in authenticity, warmth and creativity. All of this can be found in Jabal al-Weibdeh, one of Amman’s oldest neighbourhoods. Its charming cafes and galleries, bars and restaurants, and relaxed atmosphere make it a favourite with locals and travellers alike. Jabal al-Weibdeh draws me in like a magnet. Sitting in Rumi Café, listening to the soothing rhythm of conversations in Arabic, French and English, I feel the writer’s block and tension of the past few months dissolve. My appetite returns. For life, for adventure. And for Jordanian food.
Yallah, yallah
On a hot summer evening, I am standing with my fiancé on the roof terrace of ‘Beit Sitti’, which translates as ‘grandmother’s house’. At a cooking class, we want to learn how to prepare traditional Arabic dishes. We are led by energetic women like Nadja, who watches my every move and cheers me on with ‘Yallah, yallah’ and ‘Faster, faster’.
Three Jordanian sisters founded ‘Bei Sitti’ after the death of their grandmother. They keep her memory alive with their cooking classes. At the same time, they give travellers like us the opportunity to experience Jordanian culture with all our senses. We mash garlic and smoked eggplant, stir in plenty of olive oil, tahini and pomegranate molasses, and season with fresh coriander and mint. As the sun sets and the sky over Amman is bathed in an almost kitschy shade of orange and pink, we eat our home-cooked meal on the roof terrace. There is bread with mutabal – a dip made from aubergines and yoghurt -, baked vegetables and maqluba, a traditional rice dish that we prepare that evening with chicken and aubergines. Translated, maqluba means ‘upside down’: it is thrown straight from the pot onto the plate. Nadja doesn’t even need to ask if we like it. She quietly watches us eat and smiles in victory.
Since my first visit in 2022, meeting inspiring women has been a recurring theme throughout my time in the country: women who are pursuing their goals against all odds, contributing to a better society. Although Jordan is considered one of the most liberal countries in the region, it ranks only 123 out of 146 countries in the World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap Index. Women’s economic participation is low. In many parts of society, they are still confined to the traditional role of wife and mother. ‘There are gender stereotypes and social expectations in Jordan,’ Hana, a young Jordanian woman, tells me. ‘But these stereotypes are changing and the ideas about what women should do and what is expected of them are becoming more diverse.’
Hana is one of the divers involved in Project Sea, a non-profit organisation whose mission is to collect rubbish from the Red Sea. Soon after, I learn to know an architect who wants to make Amman greener by planting tiny forests, and a cooperative of female plumbers who want to protect Jordan’s precious water and educate people in schools and mosques. And for sure all the runners who are now climbing the steep hills of the women’s race. The sun is burning down from the sky, my lungs are on fire. For the last 25 minutes I’ve been fighting the urge to just stop, or at least to walk. Then I remember the strength and pride of the women I met in Jordan. And I keep running.
Annika Goodwin …
… hatte 2021 ihren Job in Frankfurt gekündigt, um fortan als freie Autorin in Namibia zu leben. Dann bekam ihr Freund ein überraschendes Jobangebot aus Saudi-Arabien. Seitdem pendelt sie zwischen dem Süden Afrikas und dem Nahen Osten, immer auf der Suche nach neuen Geschichten.
Info Destination
Jordan is a hereditary monarchy in the Middle East. More than 97 per cent of the population is Muslim. Jordan, in contrast to its neighbour Saudi Arabia, for example, pursues a policy of tolerance towards other religious communities. Christians make up just under 2 per cent of the population.
The Hashemite Kingdom is heavily dependent on tourism. Among the most popular destinations are the ancient city of Petra with its red rocks – one of the new Seven Wonders of the World – and the desert valley of Wadi Rum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. Together with the coastal city of Aqaba on the Red Sea, these two attractions form the country’s so-called Golden Triangle. Further north are the Dead Sea, the ruins of Gerasa and the capital Amman, with its Roman theatre and citadel.
Location and inhabitants: Jordan is located in the North-West of the Arabian Peninsula. The country is about the size of Portugal. It borders Israel, Palestine, Syria, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and, separated by the Red Sea on the Gulf of Aqaba, Egypt. The Kingdom is sometimes referred to as the ‘Switzerland of the Middle East’ due to its role as a mediator in the fragile region. However, tensions have also increased in Jordan since the start of the Israel-Gaza war. There have been demonstrations in Amman and other cities in particular. Almost half of the approximately 11 million inhabitants have a refugee background. The majority of people come from Palestine, Syria and Iraq.
The German Foreign Office strongly advises against travelling to the Syrian-Jordanian border region, the North-East of the country and the border region with Iraq.
Currency: 1 Jordanian Dinar = 1,35 Euro
Arrival: The national airline, Royal Jordanian, as well as Lufthansa, operate daily direct flights from Frankfurt to Amman.
Bleisure Tipps
Underwater paradise of Aqaba: If you want to scuba dive, snorkel or just enjoy the sea, head to Aqaba in the south of the country: Jordan’s coastline is only 26 kilometres long. Yet it is home to hundreds of species of coral and fish, including clownfish and pufferfish. Ayla Oasis is the perfect place to relax and unwind on land: the Cloud 7 apartments overlook the marina and the Red Sea. There are many restaurants and bars in the neighbouring Marina Village.
Culinary Amman
According to locals, the best falafel sandwich can be found at AlQuds. A sandwich costs the equivalent of less than one dinar. Pictures of the king and the ruling family adorn the outside and inside of the small shop: Ever since the Monarchs visited, AlQuds has enjoyed cult status in Amman.
Almost as iconic is the first Internet café in the Arab world. Books@Café is an art studio, bookshop, restaurant and rooftop bar all in one. For brunch, there are classics such as manakeesh (Arabic flatbread with various toppings), homemade cakes or stuffed crepes for dessert. With its relaxed atmosphere and good Wi-Fi, Books@Café is also a good place to work. Also recommended: ‘Rumi Café’, ‘Manara Arts & Culture’ and ‘Maisha’s Breakfast and Bakery’ in the Jabal al-Weibdeh district, and ‘Mélange’ and ‘Majnoon Qahwa’ in Abdoun.
For traditional Jordanian food, try Sufra on the lively Rainbow Street. A classic is the national dish of mansaf: rice and lamb served in a sauce made from fermented and dried jameed (goat’s milk yoghurt). If you fancy a glass of Jordanian wine, head to Abdali Boulevard, where the Jordan River Winery has a tasting room.
Hiking adventures off the beaten track
Jordan is a hiker’s paradise. The Jordan Trail crosses the entire country: the long-distance trail, which opened in 2015, stretches more than 675 kilometres from Um Qais in the north to Aqaba in the south.
For a day trip, head to Wadi Ghuweir in the Dana Nature Reserve, about two and a half hours from Aqaba. Visitors park on a gravel road and then follow a watercourse through impressive gorges. Beware: there is absolutely nothing here. No kiosk, no security guards, no toilets.
Another outdoor highlight is Wadi Himara, where you hike through an untamed landscape of palm trees and red rocks. You will pass waterfalls here and there. The trail starts not far from the Dead Sea and is easy to reach from Amman.
Photos: © Annika Goodwin
