“From curry to chicken rice, the culinary diversity of the Lion City is hard to beat.” Kai Böcking
For many people, eating abroad means a certain amount of overcoming your bias. Especially when it comes to Asian countries, prejudices are widespread, even among business travellers: “Watch out”, “don’t eat anything from the street”, “don’t buy water outside the hotel” are just some of the warnings that stand in the way of culinary research.
I can take this fear away from everyone – at least if the trip is to Singapore. The majority of the more than 5 million inhabitants call themselves “foodies”, someone who loves food. Which is not difficult if you live in the lion city. Many cultures, many cuisines: The culinary offer ranges from Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Malay to western food. In no other city in the world is there such a small space – Singapore is about as big as Hamburg – where you can enjoy so many different possibilities. From street food to award-winning cuisine. And without any danger to body or stomach.
The national dish is a soup: “Laksa” – with coconut milk, chili, rice noodles, vegetables, fish and crabs. The clou are the noodles: thick, finely chopped vermicelli that you slurp from the spoon – it can’t be done without noise, but it tastes twice as good.
Street-Food
Just a few decades ago, people in Singapore were still cooking and eating on the streets – Asian fast food from small, mobile kitchens. But in the early 1970s, for hygienic reasons, the government banished the flying cooks to so-called “Hawker Centers” – roofed, sometimes multi-storey buildings in the middle of the residential districts. This is where the heart of Singaporean cuisine still beats today. With sometimes breathtaking speed, fresh cooking is carried out on a square metre of surface – from satay skewers to fish head soup, spicy curries, canton duck to the national dishes Laksa soup and Chicken Rice. Look out for the health authority seal of approval at each of the stands. An “A” means that the cooking is absolutely fresh and hygienic. You only get stomach pains here if you overestimate yourself in terms of sharpness. Prices per portion: from 2 to 4 Euro.
Oh yes, Chicken Rice! Grilled or steamed chicken on rice refined with soy sauce, ginger and chilli, is not only healthy, cheap and tasty, but meanwhile also discovered by the Guide Michelin: A few years ago, he was the owner of two small Singaporean kitchens – one of them belongs to Chef Chang Hong Meng, who prepares the butter-soft cooked chicken on aromatic rice with different sauces. But now you have to queue up to two hours. The queue to the “Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle” leads from the street across the Chinatown Food Center (78 Smith St, Singapore 058972) to the first floor. If that takes too long, there are many great Hawkers in Singapore. The most modern is the “Timbre+”. This is where modern street food meets tradition. And a tip that applies to all Hawker Stalls in Singapore: you can reserve a table simply by placing a small box of paper towels on the tabletop.
Business Food
Those who have to eat and work are spoilt for choice in the Asian metropolis. One of my favourites is “Straits Kitchen@Grand Hyatt”, a monster buffet with live cooking stations. There are over 120 different dishes here, inspired by the legendary Hawker Stalls. How about beef rendang, Tandoori chicken, fresh fish or the wonderfully fragrant Durian dessert? Dozens of chefs ensure that the buffet looks (almost) virgin at all times. “Straits Kitchen” is a large restaurant and also offers enough quiet places for undisturbed business appointments. The service is fast and efficient, as can be expected for a restaurant in a five-star hotel. The Asian gourmet trip costs the equivalent of 35 euros per person. If you come in pairs, you park for free.
Sterne-Küche
In 2016, the discrete restaurant testers of the Guide Michelin Singapore set themselves their goal for the first time. 200 restaurants were checked: from the street food mentioned above to the gourmet temple. Meanwhile, in addition to the international superstars (Joël Robuchon, three stars, Sentosa Hotel Michael, Level 1, Resorts World Sentosa, 8 Sentosa Gateway, Tel. 6577 7888), a few young chefs have also cooked their way into Michelin heaven. One of them is the young Frenchman Julien Royer, who for a long time led the “Jaan” in the Swissôtel. He has been the host of the “Odette” in the front part of the brand-new National Gallery in Singapore for a few years now. Odette was the name of his grandmother from whom, as Julien says, he learned everything about French cuisine. The testers gave him two stars for his work in the “Odette”. And rightly so: everything here is art. The rooms, the view through the windows into the kitchen, the exquisite equipment and of course the food and the excellent wines. At Julien’s I tried a mousse of sea urchin tongue with caviar, and langoustines under a shell foam. Simply delicious! The master only offers menus (lunch from approx. 60 Euro, dinner from approx. 150 Euro – without drinks of course).
Drinks
The average annual temperature in Singapore is 30 degrees. No wonder that night owls like to drift outside. Dozens of bars, nightclubs and restaurants line the legendary Clark Quay party mile. This is where the party people come and go, and those who just want a quick beer are in good hands here. But two bars are really extraordinary in Singapore: There is the “Lantern Bar” on the roof of the Fullerton Bay Hotel. More romantic is probably not possible. The view of the light show of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel with excellent drinks is also not to be topped. You won’t see this light show if you go straight to the huge pool terrace of the 4,000-bed hotel. Long the landmark of Singapore, the huge boat-shaped platform houses a series of bars and restaurants that are open to the public.
Another experience is the “Smoke & Mirrors” in the National Gallery Singapore: a stylish bar with stunning views of Marina Bay Sands and Padang. The drinks are a sensation: bar chief Yugnes Susela is inspired by the artworks in the museum for his cocktail creations. My favourite: the “Tiger Blood Daisy” with tequila, salted plums and ginger beer.
Kai Böcking …
is infatuated with the city – and its delicacies. From Chicken Rice to Madras Curry – the world-traveling presenter has tried them all and always wants to come back.
Fotos: National Gallery Singapore, Straits Kitchen@Grand Hyatt