“The gunman is gone, the island is back in sleep mode. Mallorca allows you a relaxed holiday and working summer in 2020, for example directly from the tower terrace of the hotel Castell Son Claret.” Sylvie Konzack
At first I was sceptical whether Mallorca would be a good travel idea shortly after the loosening up of restrictions. The pictures of unrestrained masses at Palma’s Ballermann Miles quickly dominated the media. There was talk of a new possible hotspot, irresponsibility, an island that even now cannot get out of the cliché headlines. The favourite island of many Europeans judging by the many positive reviews – it is used for all kinds of joy and suffering, even if the concerns are only partially justified.
But Mallorca’s government has decided to have its first summer without Ballermann in order to give the most important economic factor another chance in 2020. At last, after many years of intentions, quality tourism campaigns – and above all after this Corona experience as one of the most affected countries in the world. Unlike Spain itself, Mallorca itself counted only a few Covid-19 infections. Since the outbreak of the pandemic, there have been a total of over 2,500 confirmed cases in the Balearic Islands. Even after reopening in mid-June 2020, the number of new infections remained low and no one has any interest in changing this. Whether street artists, taxi drivers or luxury hotel managers – they all welcome the Ballermann closure in this sense.
Security measures are convincing
In my case, the pulled Ballermann ripcord with its tightened controls and the general obligation to wear a mask has given me more confidence. From Munich I am planning two days on Mallorca and hope for many cliché-free moments of sunbathing in a remote, small hotel, a few people, quiet places and one or two more opportunities to continue a study project.
Straightaway at the Munich airport my wish for few people was fulfilled. Check-in was easy. The health check at Palma Airport, where everyone has to go through a QR code scan, makes me feel even better. The airport already had an online health check form (FCS) to fill out. Just enter the country and distribute Corona anonymously – the Majorcans say “no así no” as far as possible.
Reset Button with a chirping sound
About 30 minutes by car later, I am already on my way northeast near Puerto Portals in the province of Calvía and reach the palm-lined driveway of the hotel Castell Son Claret. The estate’s team welcomes me with homemade lemonade from the lemons in the front garden and a starter hygiene set consisting of mask, disinfectant wipe and disposable gloves – the new “welcome ritual” in 2020. I sign quickly with the pen wrapped in foil and finally press my personal reset button in my head – and it sounds above all like a thousand chirps, like a string concert by the “Mallorcan Philharmonic Orchestra”: the sound of hundreds of crickets in the 132-hectare castle echoes throughout the valley, with the Tramuntana mountains behind me. Retreat days with Mediterranean chillout sound, that’s exactly what I had hoped for.
Castell Son Claret, a Leading Hotels of the World on the outskirts of the village of Es Capdellà, was once a castle in the 19th century; in 2013 the Hamburg entrepreneurial family Kühne had the property with its 41 rooms and suites restored and extended. Some of the rooms and suites with their terraces are located in the historic main building. The garden suites – located in the former stables of the manor house including a Moorish fountain and private courtyard – can be reached on the way to the tennis court. And nearby are the new pool suites (photo below), with private garden and pool. All in the finca style with a Castell attitude.
Swimming in the mountains
I stay in the old main house on the property and live in one of the two 70 square meter tower suites – with a dining table for four, comfortable sofas and my highlight: the historic panoramic terrace with a view of the restaurant and the simply beautiful pool. Within two minutes of my room I can jump into the pool in the morning, at noon and in the evening and swim the mountains around me. A couple of children and many couples do the same – all of them in sunny resting instead of party mode, and some of them still at the pool edge raving about their former wedding in the Castell Son Claret. Mallorca is this way in this summer – nothing is taken for granted anymore, that seems clear to everyone here.
Bike and Palma
In between, I grab a bike provided by the Castell and cycle a little through the luxury property complex and to the next village, Es Capdellà, and back again. It quickly becomes original, over stick and stone, here and there also donkeys under trees. At a fork in the road, a large hiking sign with routes through the mountains. Whoever has time and leisure can start directly. I drive back, jump into the pool and work a little with the best WLAN at my favourite workplace, my room terrace with a view of Mallorca, nothing but Mallorca.
And then on the second day I dare to go to Palma and after a 20-minute taxi ride I walk along the beach, where at the moment mainly the Spaniards are sunbathing. A little later, in the rather empty oldtown, I only see some people who are strolling in twos, in threes and wearing masks. Everywhere, one still gets a place on the café and restaurant terraces. The summer 2020 in Mallorca – it is above all pure Mallorca without any clichés.
Sylvie Konzack …
has actually only ever been in Mallorca in winter and has now experienced an even emptier island than in the off-season. Whoever visits it now will experience lonely Mallorca in all its regenerated beauty – and with all the security measures it does good by giving the multifacted tourism industry an chance to survive.
At a glance
Getting there: The airport of Venice is only 40 and 60 minutes respectively by plane from Zurich and Munich. From here, you can take a water taxi directly from the jetty of the terminal to the island of San Clemente and dock in about 25 minutes. Those arriving by land can take the free hotel boat from Piazza San Marco.
The hotel is usually open from mid-March to mid-November.
Hotel: Castell Son Claret is a 19th century castle complex that was restored in 2013 by the German entrepreneurial family Kühne, along with its extensive gardens. The property comprises 41 rooms and suites in different houses – in the main building, in the former stables of the manor house (garden suites) and in a new building with pool suites. Gastronomy includes the Oliviera Restaurant with typical Spanish-Mediterranean cuisine and the bar in the former coachman’s house. Until recently, the two-star Michelin restaurant Zaranda with chef Fernando P. Arellano was part of it, but it is now closed. This member of the Leading Hotels of the World has a spa and an outdoor pool.
Conferences, smaller meetings and incentives are possible in the 30 square metre conference room, in the historic olive oil mill and on the entire grounds including the suites, especially the garden and pool suites. The in-house WLAN network is trouble-free on the entire property.
Address: Castell Son Claret, Carrerea Es Capdellà, 07196 Es Capdellà, Calvià, Mallorca, Islas Baleres, Spain, +34 971 138 629
Fotos: Konzack, Castell Son Claret
