“Those who know and love Venice never have enough of the city, over-tourism and doomsday scenarios aside. I was last on the island of San Clemente, from where the myth of Venice takes on a different perspective.” Sylvie Konzack
The city’s going under. “But it’s been doing so for over 220 years,” the Venetians would say with subtlety and not mean the water. Rather the end of their republic in 1797 with the invasion of the Napoleonic troops and the annexation to Austria. The, up to then autonomous, proud city experienced great economic collapses as a result. Elaborate processions were rare for many years. And places like San Clemente, the small six-hectare island in the lagoon south of Venice, were converted into a military base at this time and later into a hospital. The monks living here, who had rebuilt the dilapidated hospice and church buildings, had to leave their monastery and the island. A large powder magazine instead of peace and faith moved in.
Only a few years later San Clemente became a place of healing again with a hospital and even later with a psychiatric clinic for women, which was finally closed in 1992. Years of nothing followed – on an island overlooking Venice, only 30 fast-paced minutes by boat from the airport terminal jetty and only 15 comfortable ones from Piazza San Marco. What was obvious finally happened in 2003: tourism in the form of the luxury hotel San Clemente Palace – since 2016 under the flag of Kempinski.
The hotel has 190 rooms and suites in the monastery and hospital buildings and in the new family villas. There are also three restaurants, a golf course, a tennis court, a historical garden with art objects and the church of Santa Maria Salute. Many business travellers meet many families. Many meetings at many weddings, some with Indian elephants from the Indian home of the bridal couple. A private island, a hotel island, a luxury island for all those who want to change the classic Venice perspective and yet be part of the Venice myth on the impressive waterway.
Peggy and the water
The water! In Venice this is the dominant theme for centuries. As a feeder, as a saviour, as a source of worries. In November, when the traditional floods reach the city, Venice belongs to the whim of the sea. And when water levels reach as high as 2019, the sinking scenarios are full of supporting superlatives.
But there is a prospect of calmer waters: in 2020/21, after a delay of more than 15 years, the “MO.S.E” project, a kind of weir at the three estuaries to the open sea, is to enter the test phase. In addition, experts and city leaders hope that the city admission fees for day tourists, which are planned for summer 2020, will ease the burden.
Relaxation in paradise, then? Most fans agree that the enormous waves of tourists have done little to the unique charm of Venice over the decades. One of her biggest, Peggy Guggenheim, even created an international art pilgrimage site from her chosen home – the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal. There, where she ate and slept until her death in 1979 and from where she let herself be rowed by her gondolier through the canals for an hour every day, works by Picasso, Kandinsky, and Mondrian still hang today. Acquired by her at a time when few artists knew her, and now, as the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, a magnet and a declaration of love for the free spirit of the artists and the city.
Candlelight in the Church
As far as the free spirit is concerned, Giorgio Schifferegger also fits in well with Venice. The full-bearded South Tyrolean with tattoos on his arm and an Italian and pleasant disposition on his tongue is the chef at San Clemente Palace Kempinski and has been associated with the city both professionally and privately for years. At the private “Chefs Table” for up to eight guests, he opens the door of the San Clemente Suite in his T-shirt. On the shelves are his family pictures, on the coffee table South Tyrolean bacon and cheese. He lolls on the sofa and later cooks pasta, lagoon fish, etc. without help in the household kitchen. One eats together with him at the table and cover everything with him. An experience with a perfect host large as life.
In his gourmet temple “Acquarello” Giorgio Schifferegger also shows character and the joy of play. In an adjoining room of the church, which is not officially consecrated, he sets up a large table with silver plates, covers and lots of candlelight. Here, as in the actual Acquarello rooms, an exciting menu is served, into which all his years in Italian and French top-class cuisine flow.
What else? A lot! If you want to get around the city’s classics first, you can take the water taxi from San Clemente to the island of Murano, for example, and let the centuries-old glass craft be shown to you as you create or buy it. The concierge of the San Clemente Palace Kempinski also recommends a visit to the island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni, which is one of the world’s most important centres of Armenian culture.
I go to the old town to one of the oldest and chicest department stores in Venice: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS – and don’t buy anything. Instead, I make the way up to the wooden roof terrace, which not everybody knows about yet, and enjoy: nowhere else is the view of this unique city so unique. Viva Venezia!
Sylvie Konzack …
Is one of those who always drives to Venice and in so doing, the tourist masses are largely ignored. On San Clemente, she didn’t have to – she seldom experienced so much peace and quiet on a trip to Venice.
At a glance
Getting there: The airport of Venice is only 40 and 60 minutes respectively by plane from Zurich and Munich. From here, you can take a water taxi directly from the jetty of the terminal to the island of San Clemente and dock in about 25 minutes. Those arriving by land can take the free hotel boat from Piazza San Marco.
The hotel is usually open from mid-March to mid-November.
Hotel: The San Clemente Palace Kempinski occupies the entire island of San Clemente and is embedded in a centuries-old park. Most of the 190 rooms and suites are located in the historic red monastery and hospital building and are classically furnished. Highlights are the suites in the Navigante building with panoramic sea views, historic wooden ceilings and private kitchens. Gastronomically, the hotel has three restaurants – the gourmet restaurant Acquarello, the Insieme and La Dolce with one of the few open pizza ovens in town, as well as the Clemente Bar and Al Bacaro. The grounds also include a church, a private jetty, and a tennis and golf course. There is also a small spa in the main house.
Address: San Clemente Palace Kempinski, Isola S. Clemente, 1, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy, +39 041 475 0111, info.sanclementepalace@kempinski.com
Fotos: Konzack, San Clemente Palace Kempinski
